The elegant, green, little-known city, capital of Cantabria region sits on the central northern coast of Spain, between the Basque Country and Asturias. As you’d expect from its location, its plethora of fabulous restaurants serve up the freshest seafood, sometimes as a mariscada (platter), as well as other regional specialities. Like in neighbouring Basque Country, hake stew is a popular dish.
In terms of beaches, if you like to relax on soft sand without crowds, and with mostly Spanish visitors, then you’ll love this area. Near LVC’s fabulous beachfront Villa Bahia in Somo, where the long, pristine sandbar of Playa El Puntal projects into the Bay of Santander, you’ll find four Michelin-starred restaurants, two with green stars, and four more recommended establishments.
Casona del Judío, Santander – one Michelin star and Green star
Set in a 19th-century Spanish-colonial-style mansion (casona) with a large garden, in the city’s Monte district, this restaurant under the leadership of chef Sergio Bastard, is strongly influenced by the sea. Sustainability is a key element, with waste products such as cheese whey and anchovy brine being recycled (Çantabrian anchovies are world-famous), the latter into salmuria, which is used in sauces to enhance flavour and add a saline touch.
The chef’s own coastal herb garden also contributes to dishes, as well as algae found locally. On the 18-course tasting menu, expect the likes of tea infusion of pickled seaweed; dishes are sometimes prettily decorated with seashells. You’re greeted with snacks prepared and explained by the chef, and then taken to the cosy lower-ground floor with rustic-feel wood floor, stone walls and barrel-vaulted ceiling. The building also houses an events space in a glassed-in extension, and a research department. Casona earned its Michelin star in 2021, and its Green star two years later.
Address: Repuente 20, 39012 Santander
Contact: La Casona del Judío
El Serbal, Santander – one Michelin star
On the glorious Sardinero beach, within a striking contemporary building, El Serbal brings you the freshest catch. You will relish the bright seaside light as it suffuses the upstairs dining space, where á la carte and three tasting menus are on offer. Chef José Ramón Bustamante’s seafood creations include Cantabrian lobster, gazpachuelo (egg and garlic soup) and caviar; and prawn in chili crab with coriander emulsion.
While you soak up views of the Bay of Biscay, choose from the fish specials chosen daily at the market, as well as native local produce such as Tudanca beef, a highly regarded breed known for its lean, tasty meat.
Choose from more than 500 wines – try Finca Sierra de la Vida (albariño and riesling), a highly limited production from boutique local bodega Hortanza. Serbal has had its Michelin star since 2003.
Address: Avenida de Manuel García Lago 1, 39005 Santander
Contact: El Serbal
Agua Salada, Santander – Bib Gourmand
In this pretty, homely restaurant in Puertochico district, run expertly by Pilar (front of house) and Carlos (chef), sea-green banquettes, glass demi-johns and floral cushions create a charming, welcoming space. In such a delightful location, good honest cooking awaits you.
Raw dishes showcase superb locally caught seafood: wild sea bass ceviche, prawn carpaccio, flame-grilled scallops, traditional dishes touched by modernity. What we like most about Agua Salada, apart from the convenience of half-portions, is the amazing value for money – the prices are exceptional for such high-quality food.
Address: San Simón 2, 39003 Santander
Contact: Agua Salada
Cadelo, Santander – Bib Gourmand
Spread over two floors, Cadelo is a sleek, contemporary space, also found in foodie heaven neighbourhood Puertochico – think plain white walls and black or simple wooden tables. The menu is influenced by global cuisines such as Italian, Mexican, Korean and Peruvian. Surprising dishes worth trying include eel, ricotta, sundried tomato and crunchy quinoa salad; pork loin baos with tonkatsu sauce; and grilled squid with mole and toasted sesame.
The cheesecake is renowned, although baked pineapple with a spiced syrup and lime-coconut ice-cream is not to be sniffed at. Another establishment with an excellent price-value ratio.
Contact: Santa Lucía 33, 39003 Santander
Website: Facebook
Umma, Santander – Bib Gourmand
In this loft-style space on two levels, featuring exposed brick walls, prettily patterned pillars, and high ceilings, you can either sit at the bar, or at a table. Miguel Ángel Rodríguez produces contemporary cuisine with an avant-garde touch, while at the same time harking back his Andalucian gastronomic legacy. Standouts are the cauliflower and the lemon tart, as well as notably friendly and attentive service.
Contact: Sol 47, 39003 Santander
Website: (5) Facebook
Cenador de Amos, Villaverde de Pontones – three Michelin stars and Green star
In this tiny village 22km from Santander, the majestic 18th-century Casona-Palacio Mazarrasa houses one of Catabria’s most lauded restaurants. The culinary experience begins with welcome drinks and appetisers either in the glass pavilion or on the terrace, and continues in elegant, rustic-chic dining spaces with toile de jouy wallcoverings. Navarran chef Jesús Sánchez (the restaurant is named after his intrepid grandfather) focuses on local seasonal ingredients, with a firm commitment to sustainability – zero net emissions, community solar panels, electric car charging point powered by renewable energy; even the furniture and décor are eco-friendly.
His painstakingly researched Cantabrian “La Gran Experiencia” menu with 21 courses might include dishes such as salmon marinated in fennel oil with cream cheese; there is also a children’s menu. The wine list covers more than 500 bottles. Take a stroll through the organic vegetable garden in the grounds, see the hydroponic cultivation and charge your electric chariot at the restaurant’s charging port.
The Cenador was awarded its first Michelin star in 1993, when it opened, followed by the second in 2016 and the third soon after, in 2019. Two years later, the Green Star followed.
Contact: Plaza del Sol, 39793 Villaverde de Pontones, Santander
Website: Cenador de Amós
La Bicicleta, Hoznayo – one Michelin star
Another restaurant in an 18th century historic casona with a garden, yet easily accessible – it is located conveniently close to the A4 motorway and just 20km from Santander.
La Bicicleta has a pleasant patio-terrace, where you can kick off your gastronomic experience, while the décor inside is retro-rustic, with stone walls . La Grande Boucle menu from competitive cyclist-turned-chef Eduardo Quintana comes in 21-course or 24-course versions, and changes continuously according to which vegetables in their own kitchen garden nearby (which you can visit before lunch with the chef) are in season. We love that vegetarian, fish or vegan versions (21 courses).are available too.
His dishes creatively reinterpret Basque and Cantabrian traditions with influences from Australia and Hong Kong. Think potato soufflé filled with creamy potato, topped with bonito and katsuobushi; baby squid stuffed with pork cheek and pilpil pork crackling; or rice with boletus, Pedresa chicken and egg.
Upstairs, a pizzeria (Pizzicleta) complete with wood-fired oven offers more informal pasta, pizza and salads.
The restaurant won its Michelin star in 2018.
Contact: La Plaza 12, 39716 Hoznayo, Santander
Website: https://labicicletahoznayo.com/
Solana, Ampuero – one Michelin star
Close to the Santuario de la Bien Aparecida, the venerated patron saint of Cantabria, Solana enjoys a picture-postcard mountain location, 49 km from Santander. The bucolic views embrace cows grazing in lush meadows – the restaurant in the Bajo Asón area raises its own beef cattle, and has its own vegetable and herb garden.
Chef Ignacio Solana, alongside his sister Inma (sommelier and front-of-house manager), showcases contemporary cuisine based on regional traditions that embrace both sea and land. The à la carte, featuring Solana’s signature dishes – ham croquettes, cod fritters, maganos (baby squid) with onions, – celebrates the legacy of the chef’s mother, and is complemented by two tasting menus, Breñas and Golmaje. Solana’s sustainability commitments includes recycling and using renewable energy.
This restaurant won its Michelin star in 2012.
Contact: La Bien Aparecida 11, 39849 Ampuero
Website: Restaurante Solana
Summary
If you’d like to spend your vacation in an exceptional villa close to Santander, at Luxury Villa Collection we have a wide range of fabulous villas of all sizes – sleeping from 7 to 20 – within easy reach of excellent restaurants in and around the city.
If you fancy learning to make tapas yourself, we work with some expert chefs who’d love to come along to your villa to put on a demo, our concierge team would be happy to assist.
Fiona Flores Watson
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