Hidden Andalucia
Looking to get off the beaten track in Andalucia? We’ve scratched beneath the surface of this exciting, historic area of Spain, asked local experts and come up with a list of little-known things to…
View of the Coast from Hills Café in Benahavis
A small village high up in the hills above Marbella, Benahavis shouldn’t by rights be a reference point for where to eat well in Malaga Province. But for years now, in-the-know foodies have been winding their way up the mountain roads from the coast to get a place at the so-called ‘Dining Room of the Costa del Sol’.
Here are just a few of our favourite Benahavis restaurants to help you explore some of the best eating and drinking that the area has to offer.
Los Abanicos
Los Abanicos has been one of the go-to restaurants in Benahavis for years now, as much because of the feel of the place as anything else. From the super-warm welcome and a (highly recommended) large G&T on arrival, to the strings of garlic and sun-dried peppers that hang from thick wooden beams decorated with brightly coloured fans, it’s just got a lovely atmosphere.
That’s not to say that the food isn’t great, though. While it’s not fussy or remotely ‘haute’, it focuses on great ingredients, strong, simple techniques and portion sizes that mean you don’t need to eat again that day.
Baby squid, steaks as thick as bricks (although a little juicier), and tender, slow-cooked suckling lamb are all highlights.
Address: Calle Malaga, 17, 29679 Benahavis, Malaga; Tel. +34 952 85 50 22.
Amanhavis Restaurant
Amanhavis Restaurant
Tucked away within the hotel of the same name, this restaurant has been serving up some of the best food in Benahavis for over a decade now. Like the hotel itself, the décor is personal and eclectic with polished terracotta floors, evocative low lighting, mixed tables and chairs and interesting artworks on the walls.
Food-wise, the menu tends to be a small but select affair. You can expect the likes of pan-fried seabass, red tuna and a handful of barbecued meats, depending on the season and availability at the market.
The one thing that’s absolutely not to be missed, however, is the pan-fried foie gras – a speciality of the house.
Address: Calle Pilar 3, 29679 Benahavis, Spain; Tel. +34 952 85 60 26; Amanhavis.com.
Hills Café
Hills Café
The café of the Benahavis Hills Country Club strikes a nice balance between a relaxed vibe and serious food.
On the one hand, head chef Jean Francois Job comes with some pretty serious pedigree, having cut his teeth in the Michelin-starred kitchens of greats like Roger Vergé and Alain Ducasse.
On the other hand, there’s a gorgeous terrace from where, in the evenings, you can settle in with a drink and enjoy the views of the twinkling lights of the costa… and Morocco beyond.
The food itself can keep you guessing, as it varies enormously depending on which day you drop in. On Saturdays you can expect ‘rijsttafel’, a Dutch take on Indonesian small plates, Sundays are all about roast lunches, and during the week there’s an Asian-influenced a la carte menu to choose from.
Address: Sector la Coja, s/n, 29679 Benahavis, Malaga; Tel. +34 952 856 171; Benahavishills.com.
Escuela de Hosteleria
Not a restaurant in the traditional sense of the word, you have to limit your visits to this hospitality school to Monday-Friday 1330-1500 as it isn’t open on evenings or weekends. But it’s well worth the minor inconvenience, as this little gem to the north of the village is one of the best places to eat in Benahavis.
It’s also extremely good value, with menus paired with wines available on Mondays and Wednesdays for €29 and tasting menus on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from €38.
It’s impossible to make a recommendation, as the menu – and indeed the chefs – change depending on what’s fresh and seasonal, and what the students of the school are covering in their course at the time of your visit.
Address: Avenida de Andalucia 23, 29670 Benahavis; Tel. +34 952 855 242. Escuelahosteleria.es.
Tehuelche Grill Argentino
Tehuelche Grill Argentino
Dining in Argentina is about the simple things done really well. And this little slice of the Pampas on the way up from Estepona to Benahavis could hardly demonstrate that more clearly.
What to order? You can’t really go wrong with a Chateaubriand washed down with a nice bottle of Mendoza Malbec – and if you’re feeling particularly hungry some lamb empanadas to start off with. Simple things. Done really well.
Address: Km 1.5, Carretera Benahavis, 29688 Estepona, Malaga; Tel. +34 952 88 37 42; Tehuelche.net.
La Escalera
‘Typically Andalucian’ is how you’d sum up the appeal of this family-owned old favourite. You’re met with real warmth by the owner, Manolo, who’ll often proceed to roll out a magic trick or two for any children in the group.
The menu is full of simple southern Spanish staples – from gambas al pil pil (spicy prawns) to gazpacho via suckling pig – served against a typical and pleasingly lively backdrop.
Is it going to win any Michelin stars any time soon? It’s unlikely. Is it one of the most inviting places to eat in Benahavis? Without a doubt.
Address: Calle Almendro 2, 29679 Benahavis, Spain; Tel. +34 952 85 52 35
Like this pick of the best Benahavis restaurants? Book a foodie break with a stay at one of our nearby luxury villas.
If you’re planning a gourmet trip to the town, and want to reserve your place at the best table in the house, contact our concierge.
Ben Cooper
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[post_content] => Looking to get off the beaten track in Andalucia? We’ve scratched beneath the surface of this exciting, historic area of Spain, asked local experts and come up with a list of little-known things to see and do for our guide to hidden Andalucia...
Malaga Province
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Visit Malaga Cathedral's Roof
If the bird's eye view of the inside of the cathedral looks spectacular, then to cap it off you emerge outside with 360-degree rooftop views of Malaga.
[email protected]
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RELAX IN A HAMMAM
The top tip of Lindsay Gregory, Director of The Luxury Villa Collection: “Stroll around Malaga historic centre, take a hammam at Aire Ancient Baths and finish with cocktails at a rooftop bar.”
https://malaga.hammamalandalus.com/en/
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Meander in Antequera
A rather lovely town with a Moorish fortress complex and no fewer than 30 churches. Don’t miss having tapas in the impressive Plaza de los Escribanos.
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Visit Three 5000-year-old Dolmens
Just outside Antequera, these are some of the largest and most complete megalithic structures in Europe.
Museosdeandalucia.es
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Wonder at a 9TH Century Church – Bobastro
The ruins of a 9th-century church carved out of rock are the highlights of a larger fortified town complex. Anything 9th century and still standing is incredible in our books.
Granada Province
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Nose Around the Carmens of Granada's Albayzin
A house with a garden in the Albayzin (the oldest part of Granada city) is known as a Carmen. These Carmens look out towards the Alhambra Palace, often have wooden balconies, plant-filled patios, babbling water features and decorative tiles.
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Visit the Abbey of Sacromonte, Granada
This 17th-century abbey and college comes complete with holy caves/ancient catacombs. The view of Granada alone is worth the walk.
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Take a day trip to Alhama de Granada and its Natural Hot Springs
This village has stately houses gripping onto the edge of a gorge, cobbled streets and spa credentials. Our top tip is to escape the summer heat in Granada and visit Alhama – it has a unique microclimate where summer nights cool to a comfortable level.
Cadiz Province
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Find Out the Mysteries of the Island of Sancti Petri, San Fernando, Cadiz
Once part of several fortifications, the castle that sits on this tiny island dates back to the 13th century.
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Experience the Beautiful Light in Vejer de la Frontera
This pristine white village, sitting high on a rocky hilltop, really comes into its own at sunrise and dusk. Aside from the dramatic light, there are lovely boutique shops, great restaurants and, during the summer, look out for their candlelight festival.
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Surf and Sip in El Palmar
While it's got a great beach with some decent Atlantic surf, it’s the laidback-hip bar vibe in El Palmar that makes it stand out from other stretches of southern Spain's coast.
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HIRE A Private Chef
David, chef at De Tako's top tip is, “One of the best ways to experience a country is through its food and an even better way is to enjoy perfectly cooked food is in an incredible setting surrounded by friends". We entirely agree – hire a private chef at your villa for the ultimate in convenience.
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Taste Riotinto Beef
One of our top hidden foodie treats in Andalucia is delicious Retinto beef from Cadiz. Much is spoken about fried fish, olives and olive oil, jamón ibérico and Sherry but this meaty option is also a real gastro-standout.
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Take to the Sea – Dolphin Watch
Hire a boat and hit the sea - you’ll almost inevitably come across a pod of dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea.
Seville Province
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Puerta de Macarena/Walls of Seville
This forgotten about 12th-century arched gateway and wall was the main entrance into Seville, and is certainly off the beaten path.
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Drink at a Bar Dedicated to Easter in Sevilla
You'll never have experienced a bar like Garlochí, a homage to Easter in Spain. All year round there's incense burning and procession music playing – they call it the cathedral of bars. Don’t miss their signature cocktail: Grenadine, whisky and Cava.
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Wild Swimming at Cascadas de Hueznar in Seville Province
There’s a succession of beautiful waterfalls running over some interesting limestone formations in Sierra Norte de Sevilla Nature Park.
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SEE LIVE MUSIC IN THE ALCAZAR PALACE
Fiona Flores Watson, Telegraph Travel Writer and Seville resident recommends: “The summer outdoor concerts held in the Alcazar Palace… a magical setting for live jazz, flamenco or classical music by moonlight.”
Alcazarsevilla.org
Cordoba Province
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Visit Highgarden, the Tyrell’s House in Game of Thrones
The castle of Castillo de Almodovar del Rio was built in 740. You can join theatrical tours, do some medieval combat training or spooky storytelling.
Castillodealmodovar.com
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TRAVEL TO EAT AT TRES CULTURAS
Manni Coe of Toma & Coe's top tip is: “One of the most consistently excellent restaurants I know in Andalucia is located on a little-known street, in the little-known town of Lucena. It's called Tres Culturas and it's also a handy stop off en-route to Cordoba."
Tresculturasrestaurante.com
Jaen Province
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Marvel at the Castle of Iruela, Jaen
In the Sierra de Cazorla natural park this castle was built at the start of the 16th century. A beautiful monument in an even more beautiful part of the world.
Huelva Province
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Reconnect with Nature and See Autumn in Aracena
The colours of autumn over the vast landscape of rural Huelva is the perfect way to disconnect. Local people flock here to experience the change of the season.
Almeria Province
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Genoveses beacH in Cabo de Gata, Almeria
This breath-taking beach near the charming village of San Jose feels like another world.
A bit of a cheat but do a tour…
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See Andalucia through its Bullrings
Our top 5 are: Most unusual is in Segura de la Sierra in Jaen province: this square bullring is the old courtyard of a castle and was built in the 18th century. Ronda bullring is the second oldest and the biggest. Seville bullring is the oldest; Antequera's is famed for appearing in Madonna’s Take a Bow video; Mijas has spectacular views and is simply charming. Archidona usually erects a bullring inside its eight-sided main square during the summer season.
Like this and want to know more about visiting southern Spain? Check out our guide to the five best cities to visit in Andalucia.
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[post_content] => (As of Nov 2020)
Since the global pandemic reached our countries in early 2020 there has been restrictions in one way or another on the way we live our lives. With the sheer amount of press on Covid-19 it’s difficult to see the wood from the trees. So we wanted to reach out to our guests and give you a clear idea of what it’s really like to be in southern Spain in 2020.
As we become used to Covid-19 not going away we’re getting better at carrying on with our lives but with safety measures in place. Obviously, those who are at high risk may adopt a more stringent approach to their activities but for the rest of us we’re getting out and about responsibly. While we at The Luxury Villa Collection welcomed guests during 2020 we realise that clarity on what it's like in southern Spain is needed.
What restrictions are there in southern Spain?
Shops, restaurants, bars, coffee shops, events, museums and art galleries all have capacity limits to ensure social distancing can be adhered to safely. Businesses all have hand sanitizer at the door so customers can clean their hands upon entering and leaving an establishment. As of 25th October there is a curfew between 22.00hrs and 07.00hrs. Further restrictions have been put in place to limit the movement of people outside their municipalities.
Face coverings must be worn at all times if over 6 years old, other than:
- People playing sports do not have to wear a mask whilst engaged in the sporting activity.
- Masks do not need to be worn by customers who are eating, drinking, or smoking.
- In the sea or swimming pool.
- In a designated household sunbathing area on the beach.
Do I have to wear a face covering?
The use of face coverings is mandatory for anyone over the age of 6 years old at all times unless during one of the points stated above. This includes in all forms of indoor and outdoor public spaces even if social distancing can be applied. For countries that haven’t adopted this measure, face coverings seem a huge inconvenience but what they have allowed people to do is enjoy their holiday as normal with face coverings and social distancing being the only restrictions.Are restaurants open?
Yes, restaurants and cafes are open with limitations place upon their capacity to ensure tables are spaced out enough so customers can remove their face coverings while drinking or eating. Serving staff and chefs must wear masks at all times.
Are Beaches open in Andalucia?
Yes. Once on a beach in your own sunbathing area and in the sea you may remove face coverings. The sunbathing areas must be 2 metres apart and social distancing must be adhered to in the sea. Some beaches have allocated sunbathing areas others are flexible but there are personnel checking that people adhere to social distancing rules while enjoying the beach. No distancing is necessary within your family unit. The norms that local governments put in place over summer 2020 worked to great effect and people could enjoy the beaches of the Costa del Sol, Costa de la Luz and Costa Tropical.Are tourist sights open?
Yes. Restrictions on numbers being allowed into famous landmarks, tourist attractions and galleries has meant some sights have never been so quiet. Achieving the perfect photo of the Alhambra Palace or Real Alcazar de Sevilla without other sightseers is actually possible.
Does a face covering need to be worn while driving?
When driving alone or with your household no face covering needs to be worn, but if there are passengers or a driver from a different household then everyone must wear a face covering.What’s the general mood in southern Spain?
Summer 2020 saw fewer parties for sure: the dancing all night in a club and watching the sunrise from a buzzing rooftop bar was and is not on the cards at the moment. However, long lunches beside the sea, visiting theme parks, historic sights, galleries and museums, beach days and outdoor activities are all there being enjoyed. It's really business as usual with the some sensible parameters in place. Some of our guests used our villas with entertainment rooms, cinemas, spas and abundance of space to organise private experiences from chefs to talks to spa treatments and live music. Bringing the wonderful Spanish culture into the safety of their private villa.What is State of Alarm and What Does it Mean?
The phrase state of alarm sounds very official and, well, alarming however, it is really just an administration step for the government and helps regional governments put in place restrictions. This phase allows the government (if necessary) to limit the movement of people at specific locations and times, temporary use private industries (such as private hospitals), limit the use of services and ensure the supply of necessary goods and services. In 2020 during Covid19, the state of alarm has meant limiting the movement of people between different provinces and curfews been implemented (from 23.00-06.00hrs). In no circumstances does state of alarm mean visitors aren't permitted to travel back to their home country.Air travel – Is it safe?
So far there has been little evidence of in-flight transmission of coronavirus, but there have been a couple of examples of transmission early on in the pandemic before more stringent controls were in place.
Shaun Fitzgerald, Royal Academy of Engineering visiting professor at the University of Cambridge said, aircraft ventilation systems are unique, the “replacement rate” - the number of times a volume of air equivalent to the volume of the cabin is removed each hour - can be four minutes in a aircraft. Compare this to 20 or 30 minutes in an indoor environment on the ground and it’s very brisk. The air filters themselves on aeroplanes are sophisticated and much more effective than filters found in indoor venues on the ground.
Most airlines say face coverings are mandatory, limit food and drink services and don’t allow queuing for the toilet. The airports themselves are being diligent ensuring social distancing is in place as well as temperature controls in some.
As from October 2020 if traveling from Europe or the UK:
- You must complete a health control form - which includes a HCF - a negative PCR test within 72hrs of your arrival to Spain.
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